Just the start of the FT piece. Click link above for the rest, with 2 rainy pics!
“Bright but cold,” said the weather forecast board at fog-bound Housesteads Visitor Centre. I allowed myself a smile as I climbed the slope towards the Roman fort. There was nothing but a white wall of vapour up ahead, until suddenly the stark stone walls of the stronghold shaped themselves out of the mist.
Hadrian’s Wall was a ghostly line along the ridge beyond. I wandered through the paved courtyard of the commanding officer’s house, down to the soldiers’ multiple-seater latrine with its floor drain and stone water tanks. The 800 men of the First Cohort of Tungrians, the original garrison troops at Housesteads 2,000 years ago, must have known many a cold, foggy day such as this. At least the men would have been used to it; they were not warm-blooded Mediterraneans, but tough recruits from the low countries.